Wok Hei: Breath of the Wok

Wok hei is the smoky, slightly charred taste of a restaurant stir-fry. You need a carbon steel wok heated until a drop of water vanishes in a second, plus a small amount of food. Cook in batches of no more than two handfuls, or the wok cools and the food steams. Keep the food moving, then let it sit for a few seconds against the hot metal. On a gas burner some cooks tilt the wok so the oil spray catches a flash of flame. On an electric stove, use a cast iron pan and smaller batches.