Browning Butter (Beurre Noisette)

Melt butter in a light-colored pan over medium heat so you can see the color change. It foams, then the foam settles and the milk solids at the bottom turn tan, then hazelnut brown, and it smells nutty. That takes five to eight minutes. Pour it into a bowl right away, scraping in the brown bits, because it goes from brown to burnt in seconds. Spoon it over fish, toss it with gnocchi and sage, or use it in cookies and cakes in place of plain melted butter.