A close view of dried orange lentils
Protein

Lentils Lens culinaris

No soaking. Puy and beluga hold their shape; red lentils dissolve into a thickener.

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In the kitchen

Under heat

Red lentils have no seed coat left after hulling, so they break down into a puree; Puy and beluga keep an intact coat and hold their shape.

Against air

Dry lentils are stable for a long time; cooked lentils left out dry and form a skin within an hour.

In storage

Dry, sealed, cool — they keep for a year or more without much loss of texture.

At the shop

Color should be even and bright. Dusty or faded lentils have likely been sitting in storage a long time.

Which variety, for what

Puy / French green lentils
Hold their shape through cooking — best where you want a lentil, not a puree.
Beluga (black) lentils
Similarly firm, with a shinier, rounder look on the plate.
Red / split lentils
No skin left after hulling — they break down fast into a thick base for soups and dals.

Beyond the kitchen

THE LENS IS NAMED AFTER THEM

The optical lens takes its name from the lentil, because early ground-glass lenses had the same biconvex shape. The Latin lens meant the pulse first; the glass borrowed the word.

AMONG THE FIRST CROPS EVER FARMED

Lentils are part of the Neolithic founder crop package of the Fertile Crescent, alongside emmer, einkorn, barley, peas, chickpeas and flax. Carbonised lentils have been recovered from sites over ten thousand years old, which makes them one of the oldest domesticated foods on earth.

THEY HOLD OR THEY COLLAPSE

Puy and beluga hold their shape completely; red and yellow lentils break down into purée within twenty minutes. This is a property of the variety, not the cook, and choosing the wrong one is why a salad turns to soup or a dal stays stubbornly granular.

ESAU'S BIRTHRIGHT

The mess of pottage for which Esau sold his birthright in Genesis is a lentil stew, named explicitly in the text. Lentils appear as everyday, humble food throughout ancient Near Eastern and classical writing.

A longer history

Lens culinaris was domesticated in the Fertile Crescent around ten thousand years ago and is one of the small group of founder crops on which Neolithic agriculture was built. Carbonised remains appear at Near Eastern sites from the earliest farming levels onward, and lentils spread with agriculture into Egypt, Greece, India and Europe.

They appear in Genesis, in Egyptian tomb provisions, in classical Greek and Roman writing, and throughout South Asian texts. Their consistent association is with ordinary and often poor food — cheap, storable, needing no soaking, cooking fast on little fuel — which is precisely why they endured everywhere they were grown.

India remains the largest consumer and dal is fundamental to its cooking, while Canada has become the largest exporter, growing lentils extensively on the prairies since the 1970s. They have kept a continuous place on the table for ten millennia without ever becoming fashionable, which few foods manage.

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